Adapted excerpt from Make it a Double: From Wretched to Wondrous: Tales of One Woman’s Lifelong Discovery of Whiskey
Learning the art – or act for some of us – of whiskey nosing and tasting is a most pleasurable task, made more agreeable by the fact that it must be done with great repetition. But for some, it can also be an undertaking filled with uncertainty.
Many don’t know where to begin in search of training and education. Many give up— believing you are either born with the ability to smell and taste the complexities of whiskey, or see it as such a daunting endeavor, they throw in the towel before even trying.
Here is what I say to those folks: Do you have a nose? Does it function fairly well? Can you ferret out when it’s time to change the cat litter? If you have answered yes to all of these, then you, too, qualify as educable— and lessons last less time than it takes to make a sandwich.
This blog samples the first two parts in a series of four which helps you paddle your way through the murky waters of your next “tasting” excursion— whether on your own or in the company of so-called whiskey connoisseurs. You shall come through shining and unscathed.
The first lesson is as easy as writing your name at the top of your test paper. You get an A simply for showing up and making eye contact.
Visual Cues: Color, Viscosity and Clarity
Color
At first, it may seem there’s not a lot of variation. The color of a whiskey spans a spectrum from what’s referred to as gin clear (a new spirit) to deep treacle.
Here is a handy guide for identification that comes to you from Whisky Magazine.
Color may identify both the type of cask used and the time spent in said cask, as the hue is derived from wood contact.
Basically, the longer the maturation or aging, the more intense the color. Of course, some of this is dependent upon whether the casks were originally housing bourbon, sherry or – in the case of some of the newer finishing techniques – port, Madeira, Sancerre and even red wine.
Something I, and countless others in the whiskey world, find disturbing when reading labels, is the discovery of a color additive (caramel) used by some distilleries to enhance the outcome. It is legal, and not every country requires notification of its practice, so if this bothers you, research the distillery. Often, they’re quite proud to announce they do not use E150A.
The simplest way to identify your dram’s color is by holding your glass against a white background, such as a sheet of white paper. Now check the color chart. Super easy.
Viscosity
This is a measurement of thickness and can be a sign of a whiskey’s age.
Swirl your whiskey around in your glass, then stop and assess the legs— the bands falling down the sides of the glass. If they’re as slow as a snail with a limp, you’ve got yourself an older whiskey, possibly eligible for a pension.
And if the legs turn out shapely and heavy, your dram is likely higher in alcohol.
Clarity
Some distilleries will chill-filter the whiskey in order to eliminate any cloudiness that may occur naturally, but there is a common complaint that, by discarding the oily compounds, it also negatively affects the whiskey’s flavor.
Whiskies with the non-chill-filtered style may go somewhat cloudy when water is added but will return to its clear state shortly. Be patient. Many distillers believe you provide a richer, fuller flavor by keeping the whiskey non-chill filtered. I agree entirely.
Aromatic Cues
I’ve heard one man say that nosing a whiskey is like chasing a woman. The expectation is usually far more fun than the reality.
However, I’ll tell you from my own practices, I find discovering the aromas in a dram to be equally as appealing as the actual taste. It’s like unwrapping a present. The bows, paper and colors can really add to the finished product.
Step 1: Getting Set Up
First, find yourself a tulip shaped glass. And because not everyone cleans their glassware with equal care, rinse the glass out in warm water, running your CLEAN fingers around the rim and inside, ensuring you’re ridding the glass of any residual soap or contaminants that might affect the aromas and tastes. Lavender dish detergent and whiskey do not mix.
Pour a measure of the whiskey into the glass, and if you’re feeling frivolous, wasteful and as portentous as Master Blender “The Nose” Richard Paterson, then violently throw that dram out of the glass and onto the floor. It’s flashy, suggests you’re either out of your mind or a serious professional, and according to Paterson, rids the glass of impurities. Maybe he even chants a spell over the second batch to be certain.
Step 2: To Swirl Or Not To Swirl
There is a difference of opinions regarding the next step. Some say swirl the liquid, others insist you keep it flat.
Those that swirl believe the whiskey needs to aerate to help the alcohol leave the glass— and it’s the alcohol that will carry the aromas up to your nose, so this is important.
Those who maintain the method of keeping it flat feel that whiskey, somewhere upward of 40% alcohol, needs no help evaporating from the glass, and by swirling, you’re pushing all of the aromas out of the glass at once, making it more difficult to identify the individual nuances.
However, many professionals agree that the alcohol leaves the liquid in layers, and each layer will reveal something different about the whiskey.
Feel free to give each method a try and see what works best for you.
Step 3: Get to Know Your Whiskey
This next step is one of my favorites and has truly helped me to distinguish scents that exist in the glass that I might not get otherwise.
Dip a finger into the liquid and rub the whiskey onto the back of your hand. Wave your hand around in the air to allow the alcohol to evaporate. Now smell. The aromas are much clearer. If you detect leafy, grassy or malty notes, the whiskey is probably fairly young. Darker scents, like chocolate and spices may signify something more mature.
Step 4: Nose Meets Glass
Now again, we have some differing opinions about where to place your nose in order to obtain the best experience. Some distillers pass over the glass quickly, others try to insert their entire face.
I find three deep sniffs in fairly quick succession has been a good rule for me to follow. The first sniff, your nose prickles with the recognition of alcohol. The second sniff usually identifies the sweet, and the third, fruit. It’s on the back of the third that I find other aromas: the smoke, peat or brine. It can be entirely different for you.
Identifying What You Learned
The challenge now is to identify those aroma components more specifically, if you want to train your nose.
Sweet, is a fairly broad term, but you can train yourself to recognize particular forms of sweet with practice. Sweet like chocolate? With dark notes coming through? Sweet like honey? Like vanilla? Like flowers? What kind of flowers?
The same goes for the other aromas. It doesn’t just have to be smoke. It could be smoke from tobacco, or tarry-like or earthy.
If you’re really interested in pursuing the training of your nose further, you can buy a whiskey nosing kit. They’re marvelously helpful and great fun if you’ve got a small gathering of friends who want to enjoy the game of guessing which scents are in each small vial.
Most people have no idea how much their noses contribute to the enjoyment of food and drink. The nasal olfactory system should be applauded and held in high esteem for all that it provides.
I’m not saying you should make a sketch of your appendage to tape on the fridge, but don’t turn up your nose at recognizing its contribution. Every whiskey connoisseur nose it’s important!
Slàinte!
Shelley Sackier published her latest book Make it a Double: From Wretched to Wondrous: Tales of One Woman’s Lifelong Discovery of Whiskey in 2022. You can learn more about nosing and tasting from her in person at Reservoir Distillery in Richmond, Virginia. And discover her ongoing work with the Virginia Heritage Grain Project—a historical treasure hunt for flavors of the past within America’s spirits industry.
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