Virginia has deep ties to the Caribbean, even predating the establishment of the Jamestown Colony. So, it’s not surprising that Virginia’s first spirit of choice was rum.

Rum, in some form, is believed to have been distilled as early as the mid-1500s, making it the world’s oldest named spirit. Trade from the islands to Virginia would have brought many comestibles, including prepared rum and its key ingredients: sugar and molasses to be distilled in the colony.

Rum consumption was high in colonial Virginia: A. Smith Bowman, Virginia’s oldest distillery, estimates that an average colonist quaffed three imperial gallons of rum annually, a staggering 308 shots per person. 

While the popularity of rum has fluctuated as spirits like whiskey and moonshine entered the market, it remains a staple for spirits lovers and classic cocktail connoisseurs. More than 20 distilleries in Virginia are doing their part to keep the tradition alive and well. Keep reading for the deep dive into America’s first spirit.

How to Make

Let’s start by defining rum: any alcohol made from 100% cane product distilled under 95% alcohol by volume (ABV) and bottled at 40% ABV or higher. 

“Cane products” include raw cane juice, molasses, white or brown cane sugar, evaporated cane sugar, cane syrup, panela (unrefined whole cane sugar) and more. The use of raw sugar cane creates a challenge, as it degrades almost as it is harvested. With any alcohol or fermented beverage, we know that adding or manipulating sugar is a critical step of the process – so in this case, the natural sugars start to ferment and the natural bacteria and enzymes start to degrade whatever’s left. Distillers can lose up to 3% of sucrose in just 24 hours.

That means, unless your distillery has immediate and close access to a sugar cane plantation, raw sugar cane isn’t entirely feasible as a primary ingredient for rum production. Molasses (more stable processed sugar cane) is usually the ingredient of choice.

1. Getting it to form – Sugar cane is crushed to extract its juice, which is either used directly for rum or processed into molasses.
2. Fermentation – Yeast, water and sugar are added to the juice or molasses to create a beer-like wash. The yeast consumes the sugars and turns them into alcohol, and this balance or recipe plays a big role in the rum’s flavor. 
3. Distillation – The fermented liquid is heated and condensed in a still to separate the alcohol from the waste product. The type of still employed by the distiller affects the type of rum produced. Pot stills are similar to copper kettles and produce heavily-bodied rums, while column stills tend to produce lighter rums.
4. Aging – The product then gets moved to wooden casks, stainless steel tanks or bourbon casks – a key factor contributing to the rum’s color and flavor. Aging in oak barrels gives the rum a dark color, while aging in stainless steel tanks keeps it virtually colorless. This step can last anywhere from 6 months to more than 20 years. 
5. Decision time – Distillers will continue to taste and decide when the aging process is complete, as well as if they want to blend different rums together to make the kind of flavor profile they envision. 

 *If interested in making your own rum, you must follow Virginia codes and regulations.

The Virginia Way

Virginia rum rose to popularity in the colonial period due to the supply of sugar cane, which was highly accessible at the time. Just as they did back then, Virginians make rum through a lot of patience and a little experimentation. Or maybe a lot of both.  

Richmond-based Virago Spirits started making world-class rum in 2018. Home to one of only a few vintage, direct-fire, 2,500-liter Charentais-style alembic stills, the company’s philosophy is rooted in time-honored tradition blended with New World creativity, ingenuity and innovation – a common theme among Virginia producers.

“People associate rum with the Caribbean,” said Barry Haneberg, co-founder and distiller at Virago Spirits. “But the reality is, we can, and have, produced quality rum here on par with whatever they’re producing in the Caribbean, albeit with our uniquely American characteristics. And if there’s one thing that is uniquely American, it’s our love of experimentation and innovation.”

What sets apart today’s Virginia rum from the initial batches that came out of colonial times: intentionality and care. 

Haneberg noted that many of the nation’s original distillers wanted to focus on whiskey and used less-quality vodka, gin and rum to build a cash flow – which in turn, didn’t help to define the category of American-made rum. Now, there are a handful of local distilleries who have come together to establish guidelines to ensure the rum category as a whole reaches its potential.

“I like to think it’s going to be like California wines during the 1970s when everyone kind of had written it off…” Haneberg said. “Then, they won a bunch of competitions in Paris that changed everyone’s perception. We want to do the same thing with rum. We take it seriously, and we’re going to go out there in a couple years, when our products have aged sufficiently, and we’re going to kick some a**.”

How to Shop

If you’re lucky enough to live in Virginia, a.k.a the Birthplace of American Spirits, you have no shortage of options when it comes to the oldest and storied spirit in Virginia. In fact, there are more than 20 rum producers in the commonwealth. 

You have two simple options to purchase a local bottle: At Virginia ABC stores or straight to the source at a distillery. With 400+ stores, you’re likely not far from a Virginia ABC store. If your store doesn’t have what you’re looking for, you can order online and have it shipped to a store of your choice within 7-14 days. If you’re looking for an experience and you want the opportunity to try before you buy, visiting a local distillery is your best bet. Plus, you’ll even find some small-batch products at the distillery that may not be on the shelves or listed with Virginia ABC. 

Taking advantage of events or festivals is another great option to sample before committing to the purchase. 

You should also take full advantage of Virginia Spirits Month in September. All month long, many Virginia spirits, both in-store at Virginia ABC and at distillery tasting rooms, are offered at 20% off. The perfect time to stock up or try something new.

Finally, simply ask for “Virginia-made” at your favorite restaurant. Chat with your bartender or server to determine a cocktail recommendation. The more we ask for and support local, the more you’ll see Virginia on the menu!

How to Store 

Luckily, high proof spirits are meant to last, and rum is no different. As long as you stick to the below, your unopened or opened bottle can last on the shelf for many years (though, we imagine that takes a lot of willpower). 

1. Keep It Dark and Cool: Limit exposure to sunlight and fluctuations in temperature and humidity, which can damage the label and cork. Keep in mind, if the bottle is open, your rum is even more exposed to the elements. The ideal place to store rum is a dark, room-temperature cabinet or closet. Particularly for darker spirits, it’s imperative to keep away from the sun. 
2. Keep it Upright: Instead of storing on its side (like wine), rum should always be kept upright so that unwanted flavors from the cork doesn’t make its way into the high-proof liquid. If you’re holding onto your bottle, turn it on its head every four to six months and let the cork moisten for about ten seconds. (You don’t want the cork to dry out completely and crumble). 
3. Keep it Closed: Make sure you securely close and fasten your bottle for optimal storage! 

How to Enjoy

Contributions from Patrick Evans-Hylton

Rum remains an important touchstone to the past and flavor profile of the commonwealth. It is made to be enjoyed in a plethora of ways, especially because there are SO many types of rum to choose from. 

In particular, light, also known as silver or white rums, gold rums and spiced rums are highly represented in Virginia. There’s also dark rums, sometimes called black rum, overproof rums or Navy strength, flavored rums and more. Here’s a little more on the most common types you’ll come across:

Light Rum

Light rum, which has spent a minimal amount of time in barrels, should be clear in color and have a clean, slightly sweet aroma. The body is light, and the taste should have a crisp, lightly sweet profile that has a hint of vanilla and other baking spices. You may also notice a slight coconut or citrus flavor.

Pairs well with: 

• Tropical fruit salad with apples, bananas, mangoes, kiwi, oranges and pineapples drizzled with some poppy seed dressing or honey.
• Broiled or poached salmon, perhaps atop a bed of salad greens with a citrus vinaigrette or offered with a tropical fruit salsa on top.
• Grilled lemon chicken served with jasmine rice.
• Coconut shrimp served with warmed orange marmalade for dipping.
• Lemon pound cake with a light icing.
• Coconut macaroons, perhaps dipped in melted white chocolate.

Gold Rum

Gold rum gets its color and flavor from additional time spent in barrels. This gives the rum a rich golden hue and a moderate medium body. Look for notes of caramel and spice on the nose. Those notes of caramel and spice transfer to the taste, too, as well as vanilla.

Pairs well with: 

• Grilled fish with grilled, chopped pineapple or peaches on top.
• Grilled fish or chicken lightly brushed with a smoky barbecue sauce.
• Grilled steak served simply seasoned with salt and pepper and a pat of butter on top to melt into a sauce; also cut into thin slices and top salad greens with sun-dried tomatoes and a dijon vinaigrette.
• Roasted oysters with charred lemon.
• Roasted pork slices, also pulled into ribbons for a sandwich or to top flatbread and drizzled with a smoky barbecue sauce.

Spiced Rum

Spiced rum starts as a gold rum or dark rum. Either during aging in barrels or after distillation spices are added to enhance the already spicy nuances present. Sometimes additional sweetness is added as well. This is typically a moderate to more full medium body quaff. Look for rich caramel, vanilla and brown sugar notes on both the nose and the taste, as well as warming spices like anise, clove, cinnamon, cardamom and nutmeg. There may also be notes of lemon or orange peel, too.

Pairs well with: 

• Jerk chicken served with fried plantains.
• Grilled steak with a spicy steak sauce served with blue cheese mashed potatoes.
• Grilled fish coated in Jamaican seasoning served with black beans and rice.
• Pastrami or other bold cured meat sandwiches.
• Rich, meaty chili with jalapeño cornbread.
• Dark chocolate cake with a dark chocolate frosting.

COCKTAIL RECIPES

Bumbo

A 17th century favorite, this is a simple but potent cocktail. Think of it as an upgrade to the navy’s grog.

Ingredients

• 2 ounces spiced rum
• 1 ounce fresh lemon or lime juice
• 1/2 teaspoon grenadine or raspberry syrup
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Method

In a shaker filled with ice, add rum, citrus juice, grenadine or raspberry syrup, and nutmeg. Shake well. Strain into a martini glass. Garnish with freshly grated nutmeg. Yields 1 cocktail.

Stone Fence

This classic colonial cocktail combines a number of Virginians’ culinary calling cards, including hard cider and rum.

Note: if you’d like a recipe for simple syrup, email Patrick@VirginiaEatsAndDrinks.com with “simple syrup” as the subject.

Ingredients

• 4 ounces hard cider
• 2 ounces gold rum
• 1 ounce pure maple syrup or simple syrup
• 2-3 dashes Angostura or orange bitters

Method

In a highball glass, add cider, rum, syrup and bitters and stir. Add ice and serve. Garnish with a thin apple wedge if desired. Yields 1 cocktail.

Mojito

This light and refreshing classic cocktail combines fresh lime and mint with white rum and sparkling water to give the imbiber a taste of the Caribbean.

Ingredients

• 1 medium lime
• 12 fresh mint leaves, removed from stems
• 1-1/2 ounces white rum
• 3/4 ounces simple syrup
• Sparkling water such as club soda or seltzer.

Method

Cut the lime in half, and then cut a quarter-inch slice from one half and reserve as a garnish. Thoroughly squeeze both lime halves in a ramekin or small bowl and set juice aside.

Place six mint leaves in a cocktail shaker, and using a muddler or the back of a wooden spoon, press and muddle gently. Add the lime juice, rum, and syrup. Fill the shaker about halfway with ice, seal, and shake very well for about 20-30 seconds.

Twist the remaining six leaves once and place in a highball glass. Fill the glass with ice, preferably crushed ice. Strain the cocktail from the shaker into the glass, add sparkling water to fill, and garnish with the reserved lime wheel. Yields 1 cocktail.

Patrick Evans-Hylton is a Johnson & Wales-trained chef, food historian and award-winning food journalist covering tasty trends since 1995. He is the author of Virginia Distilled: Four Centuries of Drinking in the Old Dominion. Visit VirginiaEatsAndDrinks.com for more.